May 19th - Lagoon CoveWe'd long heard of Bill and Jean's hospitality and couldn't wait to experience it ourselves. It was the first civilization we'd seen in two weeks, though calling it "civilization" might be stretching the truth a bit. Lagoon Cove marina is situated on East Cracroft Island in what could best be described as the back and beyond of nowhere. Electricity is produced by generator, but only after 4pm. All supplies arrive by boat. They do offer an internet connection but it's a satellite connection that's pretty miserly with the bandwidth. Keep your eyes peeled when you're walking around because there's more bears than birds.
Lagoon Cove is well known amongst PNW boaters for their happy hour. Every morning, rain or shine, Bill heads out in his skiff to haul up his prawn traps. Every afternoon at 5:00 on the dot, happy hour commences. It's a bring-your-own-appetizers-and-bottle affair, but Bill and Jean provide a metric shit-ton of fresh prawns and giant bowl of cocktail sauce. So we spent a few hours shoveling prawns into our faces and chatting with Bill, Jean and the crew of M/V Important Business - the only other boat on the dock. We reveled in conversations with someone other than each other. Christy and I love each other dearly but after two weeks of only talking to each other, Christy was ready to tackle the next person she saw and hold them down until they talked to her.
The afternoon turned sunny and calm so we rigged up the hammock. Christy, right before one of her few naps that afternoon.
This guy was sniffing around our happy hour. He was big and shiny - clearly well fed.
While we were there, we bottled another batch of home beer that we brewed in Octopus Islands. A giant thanks to s/v Bint al Khamseen for teaching us their beer recipe.
May 20th - Waddington BayThe next day, we took off intending to head for Turnbull Cove. We turned to the weather channel on VHF and learned of a 40 knot blow set to blow through Queen Charlotte Strait. Turnbull Cove has a reputation for being dodgy in a southeasterly so we changed course and headed to Waddington Bay. We were here a few years back and really liked it. After spending a quiet night, we decided the gale was a non-event and took off for Turnbull. We had a bit of time getting the anchor up on deck but that'll have to wait for another blog post.
Waddington Bay is protected by a smattering of small islands called the Fox Group. After winding our way back out the entrance, we headed up to the intersection of Eden, Insect, Baker and Tracy Islands. The four islands construct a tight four-way intersecting channel that we had to check out. The channels are narrow but the depths are all pretty good. It felt like driving up a river.
This was our route out of Waddington Bay. One of the reasons we love this area so much.
Heading towards Fife Sound.
May 21st - Turnbull CoveWe pulled into Turnbull Cove and found M/V Important Business the only other boat anchored in the large cove. We spent three days here and had dinner a few times with Ed, Myrna, Lloyd and Delores - the crew of this 55 foot gin palace. We really enjoyed their company. Especially since they're all from Butte, MT. It was kinda fun to recount the times I got beat up in Butte while I grew up in Helena 60 miles away.
Turnbull Cove is ever farther back and farther beyond nowhere. The area is surrounded by small inlets, lagoons and one hellacious rapid named Roaring Hole Rapids. We chose not to tempt our fate. Rightly so, as Ed told us about the time he tried it in a dinghy and flipped half way through. We were really happy to have our planing dinghy with our awesome 15hp outboard in order to explore the area. We spent alot of time at 20 knots blasting around into different inlets and passes. We spent the days crabbing, prawning, playing cards and just burrowing farther into cruising mode. Perhaps a few naps were had.
The mist from Roaring Hole Rapids. This was nowhere close to max tide and it was still a Class II rapid.
Hauling up 400' of prawn trap line that was wrapped around part of a tree.
Our haul included a few prawns and a starfish with two hundred legs (I counted).
On our way out of Turnbull Cove, a thick fog settled in. When we weighed anchor, we couldn't see any shoreline. With a bow watch, a pitiful fog horn and good radar we picked our way through.
50° 57.555'N 126° 50.229'W